Noraduz medieval cemetery

A khatchkar haven and a place of ancient lore

by Nyree Abrahamian

Published: Friday November 07, 2008

Noraduz Cemetery.

Noraduz is a medieval cemetery with a huge collection of early khatchkars (Armenian cross stone carvings). Following the recent destruction of khatchkars in Julfa, Nakhichevan, by the Azerbaijani government, Noraduz has the largest surviving collection of khatchkars both within the present-day Republic of Armenia and throughout historic Armenia. The cemetery is located in the village of Noraduz, in Gegharkunik province near Lake Sevan.

Noraduz cemetery is spread over a 17-acre field containing almost 1000 khatchkars, each with unique ornamentation. The oldest khatchkars in the cemetery date back to the 10th century. Many are from the 16th and 17th centuries, when there was a revival of the khatchkar tradition under the Persian Safavid Empire, with oriental influences seeping into Armenian art. Each khatchkar tombstone has a story. Several of them are decorated with intricately carved scenes depicting weddings, farming, and life's happy occasions.

Today, the ancient khatchkars of Nordauz are covered with moss and lichen. A modern cemetery has been built adjacent to the medieval one, separated by a long fence. The new tombstones have realistic portraits of the deceased sandblasted into the stone, but somehow, they lack the spiritual aura surrounding the mossy khatchkars from the Middle Ages.

Cemetery turned Battlefield?

There is a great deal of folklore surrounding Noraduz Cemetery. According to one popular tale, when the army of Tamerlane invaded, the villagers placed helmets on top of the khatchkars and leaned swords against them. From a distance, the tombstones looked like strong, sturdy armed soldiers, intimidating Tamerlane and his army enough to prompt their retreat.

Buried alive...

Another popular story is about the 19th century monk, Ter Karapet Hovhanesi-Hovakimyan, who conducted burial services at Noraduz. When he was 90 years old, he asked his fellow monks to bury him alive. His last words were: "I do not fear death... Never fear anything, but God alone. Let anyone who has fear come to my burial stone and pour water on it. Drink the water, and wash your face, chest, arms and legs. Then break the vessel that contained the water. Fear will abandon you." To this day, people come to Ter Karapet's grave to perform this ritual.